Sri Ajit Halder
Kumbha Mela is a mass
Hindu pilgrimage, the most popular religious festival and fair in which Hindus
gather to perform the ritual of Snaan, i.e. to bathe in a sacred river
adjoining a holy site. It is held every
third year at one of four places by rotation.
These places are: (i) Prayag or Allahabad at the Sangam (i.e. confluence) of the Ganges, the Yamuna, and the
mythical Saraswati (that supposedly flows underground); (ii) Nasik by the river
Godavari; (iii) Ujjain by the river Shipra, and (iv) Hardwar by the river
Ganges. Thus the Kumbha Mela is held at
each of these four places every twelfth year.
The site where the Mela will be held is determined by the zodiacal
positions of the Sun, the Moon, and the planet Jupiter according to the Stotras
(scriptural verses):
1.
Makare ca Divaanaathe, Vrishage ca Brihaspatau /
Kumbha Yogo bhavet tatra Prayage hi
atidurlabjha //
2.
Vrisha Raasi gate Jeeve Makare Chandra Bhaskarau /
Amabshyaa
tada yoga Kumbha akhoyau teertha Nayaaka //
This year the Sun is in
Makar Raasi while Jupiter is in Vrishava Raasi.
These celestial positions fulfill the criteria of Stotra1 for holding this
Mela at Prayag (Allahabad). The Kumbha Mela
that is held only at Prayag is called Purna Kumbha and is the largest of all
Kumbha Melas. This year’s Prayag Mela
comes after twelve Purna Kumbhas i.e. after a gap of 144 years and is very
special. It is called the Maha Kumbha and
is considered to be the most holy and auspicious of all Kumbha Melas.
The mythology of
Kumbha Mela:
‘Kumbha’ means a pitcher. According to Hindu mythology, the Gods and
the asuras (demons) once churned kheer saagara (i.e. the ocean of milk). This churning, known as Samudra Manthan, was done with the Mandar Mountain used as a
churning rod and the serpent Basuki used as a rope tied around the mountain. The
Gods pulled one end of the rope while the asuras gripped the other end. Hindu mythology also states that this
churning yielded amrita (i.e. the
nectar of immortality) which was collected and placed in a Kumbha. In order to prevent the demons from forcibly
grabbing the amrita-filled Kumbha, Lord
Vishnu flew away with the Kumbha spilling drops of amrita at four places, namely Prayag, Nasik, Ujjain and
Hardwar. Kumbha Mela is held in these
four places by turn. The next Kumbha Mela
will be held at Nasik.
Significance of the
Kumbha Snaan
The Kumbha Mela is an
event that offers an opportunity to witness religious activities like
devotional singing, mass feeding of holy men, women and the poor, assemblies of
learned scholars discussing religious issues, and beholding the power of faith that
motivates millions of devotees to come to the Mela. Yet of all the sights, sounds and activities
one is likely to encounter at the Mela, it is the experience of participating
in (and witnessing the multitude of fellow pilgrims) bathing in the holy river
that leaves the most profound and lasting impression of Kumbha Mela on a
visitor.
The offering of a prayer
and taking of Snaan (i.e. holy dip) result in a renewal of the Self, of
bringing in an awareness of ‘leaving behind’
one’s sins and misdoings of the past, and of reawakening of the ‘I-ness’
in the mind – all leading to a new, spiritually enriched life. The two phrases - ‘Immersing in’ and ‘Emerging
out’- are eloquent expressions for the reward one gains by undertaking the entire
ritual. While taking the dip, the
devotee immerses his/her entire body,
mind and spirit into the bosom of Mother Ganges, and emerges out of the water as a transformed, uplifted, resurrected
and reassured person, empowered to make a fresh start towards a richer, more enlightened life. It
brings home a feeling of the Yoga (union) i.e. the linking of the individual
self with the Universal Self, of Jibaatma
with Praamatma. This is the religious benefit one achieves by
participating in the Maha Kumbha Snaan.
The 2013 Maha Kumbha
Mela:
This year’s Kumbha Mela
began on the day of Makar Sankranti (i.e. 14th January 2013), and
continued for eight weeks, ending on Maha Shivaratri (10th March
2013). I consider myself very fortunate
for having been able to attend this auspicious event and taking a holy dip at
the Sangam. I feel doing so helped me gain immense spiritual boon. I experienced the aforementioned transformation within me while
approaching the bathing ghat, taking a dip in the water and then coming out of
the river onto the bank and facing the Sangam while chanting ‘Jai Ganga Maayi’. I am sure millions others performing the
same ritual experienced similar uplifting feeling of their souls as I did.
The Snaan on Mouni
Amavasya (which fell on 10th February 2013) attracted the highest
number of pilgrims. It’s been estimated
that nearly three crore pilgrims took Shahi Snaan (i.e. the royal bath) that
day. The second largest crowd numbering
one crore was registered on 15th February, 2013, the day of the Basant
Panchami. Although taking a dip in the
Ganges any day during the Mela period is considered to be a pious act, there
were three other days earmarked as being very auspicious for taking the Shahi
Snaan: the Makar Sankranti (on 14th January), Pous Purnima (on 27th
January) and Maghi Purnima (on 25th February).
Public Facilities,
Media Coverage, Consumerism and Modernity at the Mela:
The 2013 Maha Kumbha
Mela was extensively covered by the Indian and foreign newspapers. They printed hordes of statistical data on
the number of devotees attending the Mela, detailed description of the construction
of a temporary city at the site to cater to millions of visitors to Allahabad,
and the opening of hospitals staffed by large team of doctors to provide health
care. It was reported that a huge number
of police and volunteers were recruited to manage crowds on the roads leading
to the bathing ghats and to ensure the safety and security of the visitors. Accounts of thousands of pilgrims lost and
separated from their families and later reunited with their loved ones after an
agonizing period of waiting in suspense touched our hearts. These extensive reporting on the enormity of
the Mela was interesting to read as I witnessed the largest ever congregation
of people I had ever come across in my life!
Banner advertising radio coverage of the Mela proceedings
It was a huge undertaking to feed the millions of visitors and to
provide for their accommodations.
Hundreds of food stalls and dhabas
had sprung up all over the place. These outlets sold mouth-watering food
items and soft drinks to tired and thirsty pilgrims who stopped in for a snack
and a drink during their long strolls to scour the Mela. Besides the food stalls, many shops displayed
religious merchandise, artefacts, and even small jugs filled with the water of
the Sangam for pilgrims to take back home and share with their friends and
relatives. Listening to the experiences of those who
visited the Mela, touching a jar filled with the water of the Sangam, and
sipping a drop of holy water can certainly help those who were unable to attend
the Kumbha Mela, feel religiously uplifted.
Crowds making their way through the Mela and to the bathing ghats
The Uttar Pradesh government and several commercial firms erected hundreds of tents
with modern facilities to serve as temporary lodgings. A large number of new hotels also opened up
to meet the demand of the visitors for suitable accommodation. The arrangements made by
the state authorities to offer care and hospitality to the Mela visitors were indeed
amazing and admirable.
The 2013 Maha Kumbha Mela was more than a spectacle of spirituality; it
also showcased to the consumerism and the march towards
modernity that have accompanied the economic growth of modern India to the rest of the world. The extensive press coverage and telecasts
brought to the world’s notice the rich, Hindu religious tradition along with
the emergent consumer culture in India. Considering
the fact that the Mela attracted the largest number of individuals gathered at one
place at the same time, it is not at all surprising that Indian Corporate
bodies like banks and commercial groups used the opportunity to publicise their
business activities through eye-catching hoardings and the distribution of
trade literature from information booths.
The author will remember the 2013 Maha Kumbha Mela as a spectacular
event in which age old Hindu rituals and religious practices were intertwined
with the new consumerism and market economy that have visibly penetrated into
small towns and rural India.